Charred Mushroom Ragu with Za'atar

Method

A few unhurried steps. Read them through once before you start.

1. Gather and prep everything first: measure the spices, chop the aromatics, and bring the main ingredients to room temperature so they cook evenly.
2. Heat a grill or a heavy grill pan until very hot. Toss the main ingredients with olive oil, salt, and pepper so they take on color without sticking.
3. Grill in batches, turning once, until deeply charred at the edges and just cooked through. Resist the urge to move them too soon.
4. Build the sauce and finish with Za'atar: stir through the fresh herbs, adjust salt and acid, and let everything come together off the heat for a minute or two.
5. Serve the mushroom ragu warm, with plenty of good bread or a simple salad alongside. This makes about 5 servings; leftovers keep well for a day.